Our weekend between Portovenere and the Cinque Terre


There are 39 degrees, but there is a bit of wind. The desire to dive into the sea assails us, but we are not here to spend the afternoon on the beach. We want to see everything. As much as possible. We are moving towards the splendid church of San Pietro, located on the peninsula. From a distance, it is beautiful.

We stop immediately at the Grotto of Byron from where we see a truly spectacular panorama. The stacks, the boats, the wind, the sun, the Mediterranean scrub is all amazing. The Grotto of Byron is called so for the companies of the English poet that we take a few photos, a couple of videos, and so we go to church. There is also a wedding. We are waiting for the bride. It does not arrive. We remain a little longer, and in the meantime, we take photos from the porch of the church, the most cooling area of ​​Portovenere. There is a gentle fresh wind. Nothing, the bride, does not arrive. The groom is nervous. We can no longer wait. Let’s go away.

We are moving towards the interior of the country, we walk in the narrow and crowded alleys, and we waste time making ourselves selfies. At the end of the walk, we sit down to eat a granita in a bar facing the pier, from where our boat will leave to return to Lerici. Tomorrow will be the Cinque Terre Day.

Let’s go back to Lerici with the 17:30 boat and head towards our comfortable B&B which is 10 km from the port of Lerici. We chose to spend a night immersed in the green, among the vineyards, and perfect silence. How did it go? Very well.

We arrived at the B & B Rodopilo is a large country house, immaculate and well organized. The owner, Rosy, is a very kind and caring lady. Fair price for a room with a private bathroom, kitchen, and standard room. Including breakfast, wifi, and parking. Total 60 euros.

We wake up the following morning well-rested or instead regenerated. Let’s have breakfast, say goodbye to Rosy and go to Lerici where we will embark on the Natural Park of the Cinque Terre.

What are the Cinque Terre?

The Cinque Terre are ancient fishing villages built in a rugged coastal area declared a UNESCO heritage site in 1997. They are characterized by terraces, vineyards and beautiful colorful houses.

The Cinque Terre is part of the municipalities of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso and all, except Corniglia, can be reached by sea.

Corniglia develops in the mountains and has no berths for boats. To reach it, we must follow a different path than the one we started. It can be reached on foot from Manarola along the Sentiero Azzurro, the most famous route in Liguria.


Our first stop is Riomaggiore which we reach after about half an hour of navigation from Lerici.

We disembark, and the landscape is so beautiful that it leaves you breathless. Colorful houses, tiny, attached and set between rocks and mountains. The sea is a deep blue, and the marina is small but very busy. There is also a tiny beach, but more than anything, there are rocks.

The goal is to reach Manarola on foot, following the famous “Via Dellamore.” The trail is about 1.5 km long and offers a beautiful scenic walk. We head towards the train station, the starting point of the famous street. But we are unlucky. The pedestrian path is closed due to landslide danger. It is therefore not possible to continue towards Manarola on foot.

A little disappointed and very hot, we go back to the port, refresh ourselves, and decide to take the first useful boat. We will skip the stage of Manarola and therefore, also that of Corniglia. Instead, we head to Vernazza, where we will have our lunch.


We arrive in Vernazza at around 13. We get off the boat and stop for a few minutes in the marina. There are so many children diving from the pier. We would also like to take a bath, but this is not the time. We shoot some videos, take some pictures, and continue towards the center of Vernazza.

Vernazza is a clean and elegant town, but the houses seem a little more ruined than in Riomaggiore.

We are looking for a restaurant where you can eat fresh fish. The town is crowded. They reach 40 degrees. We see a free table from afar, and we approach the Trattoria da Sandro, on the main street. Excellent welcome, fast, and accurate service. We order an appetizer to be divided into two: octopus salad with Ligurian and spaghetti with seafood. The fish is fresh and well cooked. Bring plenty. Perfect service times.

The owner walks around the tables and stays a while to chat with us. She is a lovely and particularly talkative lady. He tells us many details about his life and his restaurant business. In the end, it offers us a delicious iced coffee, very refreshing. The bill is a little above average, but ultimately we are in the Cinque Terre, so it’s normal. Finally, we were excellent and will be back.


We arrive in Monterosso at 3.45pm. We don’t have much time to get around the town, the last useful boat is at 5 pm, but we want to feel the temperature of the water, so we take a quick tour of the city lanes and go back to the port. The beach is equipped and a little wider than those of Vernazza and Riomaggiore.

We take off our shoes and try to walk a little on the shoreline. The small pebbles stick everywhere. We try to resist maintaining balance. We struggle — too much effort.

Your feet hurt, but the water is lovely. It is warm and bright. A perfect foot bath at the end of the day. It’s time to return. Let’s take the boat back to Lerici, satisfied with everything we’ve seen, heard and breathed. But this is not goodbye. It’s goodbye. We will return to the Cinque Terre as soon as the Via dell’Amore will be reopened to complete our tour in Manarola and Corniglia, in the meantime, we are satisfied with our weekend just ended, and we are heading towards a new week.

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